Monday, November 2, 2015

Climbers, dogs, beer & the new Reel Rock in Costa Mesa

On Thursday October 15, 2015, over 700 people—climbers, gear companies, local breweries, food trucks, outdoor enthusiasts (and their dogs) gathered in the parking lot of the Gear Co-Op—a small-knit community rock climbing store located in Costa Mesa.  For 10 years, producers of the rock climbing film Reel Rock have showcased the premieres at over 450 locations worldwide.  

The Southern California climbing community gathering for the premiere of Reel Rock 10 in the Gear Co-Op parking lot.

 Upon the start of the film,  people indulged in craft beers and food truck delicacies- two essential components of a climber's diet.  People meandered through rows of easy-ups hoping to score free gear from top-of-the line brands like the North Face, Hydroflask, Black Diamond, Petzel and GoPro.   As the movie previews started and the lights dimmed, the crowd grabbed one last beer and packed tightly together- some sat on camping chairs, some lied on boulder pads and some sat flat on the asphalt.  For climbers, seating didn't matter.  They were there to see the new Reel Rock- the most anticipated climbing film every year featuring compelling looks  at the most incredible climbs and expeditions of 2015.

The first movie of the night followed a point-of-view style film featuring Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell on an expedition across the Fitz Roy Mountain Range in Patagonia, Chile.  This was the first treacherous traverse across the dangerously high skyline, yet there was more laughter in the crowd than "ooh's" and "ah's."  Honnold, the world renouned free-solist made sarcastic comments consistently throughout the film and made everyone chuckle- especially the moment he was filming Caldwell as he ate old soggy pasta with a pair of broken sunglasses and deemed the shot as "artistic."

Robert Michael, an avid Southern Californian climber attended the event with his girlfriend.  "I really enjoyed the Fitz Roy film," Michael said,  "At one point, my palms would be sweating because some of the climbs they [Honnold and Caldwell] did were so nerve racking and then I'd be cracking up at Alex's remarks...I never expected him to be so funny."

The second film raised hairs, consisting of high-ball boulder problems filmed in Bishop, California.  This film had a compelling storyline as it followed select climbers and highlighted specific projects they worked on all year.  John Norian, an employee at the climbing shoe company La Sportiva said he was in Bishop during the big climbs in this film.  "It was amazing to see these guys climbing again on the big screen," Norian said, "And, it is especially great to see how vibrant the climbing community has gotten in So Cal over the last few years." 

A short intermission was given to the crowd after a tribute to Dean Potter- the Yosemite dwelling free-soloist and experienced wing suit flyer.  Gear Co-Op employee Jan Myers sat at the front and teared up during the tribute.  Myers happened to meet Potter once in Yosemite and like many other acquaintances of Potter, she said she had been inspired by his uncanny pursuit of following his passions.  "I was really touched when everyone gave Potter a standing ovation," Potter said, "It's heartwarming to be apart of such a close community."


The night ended with the climb that sparked international attention- Yosemite's Dawn Wall Project. Just six days after Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson set out to achieve on of climbing's most difficult challenges, President Obama acknowledged their ascent.  After nineteen days spent working on the climb, the two reached to summit of the 3,000-foot rock known as El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. 

Yosemite climbing legend Tommy Thompson who is most well-known for his 3,000-foot climb with a paraplegic man said he came to the premiere to view this film.  "I was climbing in Yosemite during Tommy and Kevin's Dawn Wall ascent," Thompson said, "I would stop and talk to them about the climb and how funny it was that the whole world was tracking their progress.  Kevin said it made him more nervous, the more he saw the news stories...And with good reason! I wouldn't want to fail in front of America either, haha."

"Thank you to everyone who turned out for our biggest Reel Rock event yet!" Gear Co-Op wrote on Instagram alongside a photo of the the gathering, "All proceeds are going to our conservation friends of Joshua Tree."



   



     

Thursday, October 29, 2015

REI Closing it's Door's on Black Friday

Outdoor gear and sporting goods retailer REI is closed on Black Friday this year.  No sales.  No 4 a.m. shoppers.  No 3 hour lines. 

 In an unconventional move for the biggest day of consumerism, REI's 143 stores are shutting it's doors on Black Friday. 

Instead of promoting sales, REI is launching a campaign urging people to spend time outdoors rather than go shopping.  Using the hashtag #OptOutside, REI wants people to share their outdoor activities on social media during Black Friday. 

The campaign resembles Patagonia's 2013 ad that ran in the New York Times during the holiday shopping season.  The ad read, "Don't Buy This Jacket."  Patagonia’s wild success has been based on honesty and their abandonment from conventional marketing.  Patagonia ads commonly read, “Reduce, repair, reuse and recycle,” and provide steps towards taking action in environmental policy acts.

In 2013, Bloomberg reported that Patagonia sold close to $575 million.  According to Forbes, Patagonia has doubled profits in the last three years.

REI's decision to close doors on Black Friday may be an effort to touch consumers in a way that subtly draws more business to the company in the long-haul.  USA today asked President and CEO of REI Jerry Stritzke about the decision. 

"The thing that is powerful to me is this clearly is not a financially self-serving act," he says. "It's an act where we're really making a very clear statement about a set of values." (USA Today)

Either way, this decision is a reflection of how Patagonia has influenced large businesses.  Perhaps, we will start to see more large corporations follow in this same direction and end the mindless consumerism that takes place on Black Friday.  One can only hope.

Reel Rock 10 Premieres Tonight

For the 10th consecutive year in a row, adventure and climbing film Reel Rock premieres tonight in 450 locations world wide.  For us So Cal dwellers, the Gear Co-Op in Costa Mesa will be the center of action.  Starting at 6 p.m. the rock climbing community will gather for food, beer, raffles and a dyno contest.  (For those of you who don't climb,  a "dyno" is when a rock climber leaps from one hold up to another.)

Chris Sharma dyno in an old Reel Rock film


Reel Rock was founded in 2006 by the filmmaker Josh Lowell (Big Up Productions) and Peter Mortimer (Sender Films.) 

The Reel Rock Film Tour brings the best adventure and climbing movies to the outdoor communities around the world. 

Here's a preview of Reel Rock 10.  Enjoy.


Stay tuned for a post tomorrow featuring photos, videos and interviews from tonight's premiere.

Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Alex Honnold's, "Alone on the Wall"

World renounced free solo rock climber Alex Honnold is releasing his book "Alone on the Wall" this November.  The book documents the 30 year-old van dwelling climber's most incredible climbs including his free-soloing Sendero Luminoso in Mexico and climbing the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia.

Honnold has developed an informed presence on Facebook.  He posts interesting pieces from the news and often gives his fans his personal take on issues.

In his latest post he commented on The Atlantic's review of his book.

                The Atlantic reviewed my upcoming book Alone on the Wall.
               Starting with the headline I think it went down the wrong track. The book is in many
               ways my attempt to explain my climbing and motivations - the review sticks to the typical                 "risking death at every turn. One mistake and certain death!" type of tone.
                 I  wonder if the reviewer actually read the book or just watched a few youtube videos and   called it good. . .

Not only is Honnold an extremely entertaining athlete to watch climb, but his critical opinions voiced on Facebook are also quite exuberant in that he always seems to bluntly approach subjects. 

A book signing in Los Angeles is scheduled for Nov. 22nd and the 23rd.  

Here's the latest video of Alex "free-soloing," meaning climbing without rope or safety protection.


Monday, October 19, 2015

Patagonia Wool Crisis


On Thursday Aug. 13th, 2015, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) released footage of cruel treatment at a farm in Argentina which supplied Patagonia Inc. wool used in it’s clothing.  Following the release, thousands shared the graphic video and voiced their opinions on Patagonia’s social media platforms including Facebook, Instagram and Twitter and to their online blog, thecleanestline.com.  Four days after the video release on Monday morning, Patagonia issued a statement saying they would no longer buy wool from Ovis 21, the farm responsible for the animal cruelty.  However, the “environmental friendly” company is receiving harsh criticism.  


Background:

Founder of Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard, created a company that has been a leader in the world of values-led business.  According to Chouinard’s autobiography, Patagonia will always contribute to environmental issues, even if it means that business suffers.  In an article in Inc. Magazine Chouinard said, “I know it sounds crazy, but every time I have made a decision that is best for the planet, I have made money. Our customers know that—and they want to be part of that environmental commitment.”  It’s true, people care.

In 2008, Patagonia appointed Rose Marcario as CEO, the first female to run the company in 2o years.  Bloomberg reported that Patagonia sold close to $575 million dollars in 2013.  According to Forbes, Marcario has doubled profits in the last three years.


Patagonia’s mission statement is “Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis.”  The privately owned company backs this up by annually donating 1% of sales towards environmental organizations. Their 2013 black Friday ad read, “Don’t Buy This Jacket.”  Instead of buying new, Patagonia urged consumers to “reduce, repair, reuse and recycle” old clothing and also encouraged people to sign a pledge promising their commitment to conserving used clothing.  People both signed the pledge and bought Patagonia product in mass.

 Immediately after PETA released the graphic video of animal cruelty taken place at Ovis 21, the video went viral.  Each of Patagonia’s social media channels were bombarded with negative comments and the video was constantly reposted by the public and the link was shared in the comment fields.  A flurry of outraged consumers attacked Patagonia claiming, “they were a scam” and that their brand image of protecting the environment stood to cover up animal cruelty in their manufacturing process.  Several news organizations covered the issue like Business Insider, NPR, Vogue, Huffington Post, CBS News and others.  Patagonia was in deep trouble.

Business Insider, Yahoo News, SF Gate,  NY Daily News, Fashionista and several other networks reported on the issue and followed the initial breaking news story with another story featuring quotes from Patagonia’s CEO and the repercussions the company will face.  Outside magazine said, “The company’s response was fast.  And honest.”

Although Patagonia cut ties with Ovis 21 immediately, the company will face problems.  Retailers will face issues on existing clothing lines in store.  The production of wool is essential to the success of their most popular line of clothing.  Argentinian farms could be effected due to the slowdown of wool production which serves as a valuable economic asset.

Brother loses backpacking virginity

“Check the fuel, check and see if we packed the jet boil fuel,” Robert commanded to me for the third time.  He was nervous.  There was no going back… 

 The trail head merged into two dividing rocky roads,; one that looped back to the parking lot filled with camera ready tourists and walking distance from a pizza parlor; the other: winded straight ahead jutting along thousands of miles of sky-scraper high jagged peaks of the Canadian Rockies dipping into dark forests and climbing up to vast mountain passes.

 Hesitation was no longer an option.  We were committing ourselves to this journey with the little resources stuffed in our backpacks.

“For the third time, we have enough fuel…But we might’ve forgotten the stove.” I replied sarcastically with a smirk across my face.  And so we were off; Robert’s backpacking virginity was about to be lost and the pre-feelings of nervous excitement had triggered an addiction.

In a week, we hiked over five mountain passes, gaining over 2000 ft of elevation; we scurried through hundreds of patches of dense, bear-scat infested forests for 17 km; we awoke to frosty toes and the thumping sound of a woodpecker’s beak drilling through hollow birch, we stared starvation in the eyes; but most importantly, we formed a brotherhood that would last forever.

A D V E N T U R E...


Excitement.  Anxiousness.  Fear of the unknown-- the package of feelings only adventurers experience…The feeling fuels a drive, a mental and physical obsession to push human boundaries to the limit.  Leading a so-called normal life pursuing the typical “American Dream” entails complacency of monotonous behavior, a life no adventurer possesses the power to live.  An adventurers life translates into a Kerouac novel; it’s challenging to keep up with; it’s spontaneous and surprising; every page flips at random, every chapter transitions abruptly and moments of existential uncertainty are common.

That same feeling that fuels the obsession to pursue primitive experiences also fuels an industry: the outdoor industry.  This industry consists of brands that connect to people through clothing or utilities.  Brands like Patagonia and North Face have become an essential component to people’s lives.  The realiabilty, durability and dependency guaranteed with each garment is tested in harsh conditions.  These brands are built to provide comfort for those who seek uncomfortable weather and strenuous activities. 

The industry has immersed itself into the world of social media.  Here, brands subtly encourage consumers to buy their product through inspirational photography, videograpy and real life accounts of their product at use. 

In this blog, I will keep you updated with occurrences in the outdoor industry, highlight new, innovative gear and explore the accomplishments and expeditions of well-known adventurers.  

p.s. I might mesh in some of my experiences out in the woods too.